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I love when a mimosa is automatically handed to me when I sit down.  Every brunch should start like this.  It’s perhaps why the line wraps around the block at The Smith, even on the dreariest of New York City days. Inside, the air is warm and dry, and the energy is bustling.  Not only does brunch come with your choice of a free Bloody Mary, bellini, blood orange mimosa, passion punch or fresh squeezed juice, the menu aims to please with down-to-earth, American brasserie fare. Expect country breakfast ($16) with grilled ham, biscuits and gravy; buttermilk waffles ($15) with strawberries and whipped cream; and a generous shrimp salad with fennel, orange and basil vinaigrette.

Classic potato latkes get a makeover when pressed into a waffle iron.  The potato waffle Benedict ($16, pictured) is crisp and potatoey, topped with a velvety spinach sauce and caramelized onions.  The eggs are only slightly over-poached but easily forgiven with another sip of passion punch.

Don’t miss the ranchero scramble ($16), a hefty portion of tortillas, creamy black beans, chipotle salsa, cheddar and delicate, perfect fans of avocado.  Get a side of Brussels sprouts ($8), which are caramelized into airy pillows of green origami.The Smith offers 7 local craft beers on tap plus 20 wines by the glass.  They serve breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner, probably to keep up with the heavy influx of eager, happy diners.