The branzino tartare with lemon, ginger, and vanilla is cool, light and fresh; ideal for a 90º day. The chicken tajine with fennel, yellow tomato, and pearl onions bursts with flavor. The mini Milky Way dessert was la pièce de resistance, but of course. This is no Halloween-sized chocolate bar. Instead, the dish presented microplaned strawberries, strawberry sorbet and cream topped off with lovely espuma.
All items are artfully presented in 4 portions on one plate, eliminating the need for frequent service interruptions (in case of top-secret discussions). The menu also features an item that will increase the calorie count by about 70, which you may choose to leave it out: the ultra brut champagne. The light, dry bubbly is worth the extra calories.
While the spa lunch may leave you comfortably satisfied, photos of a half-naked Inès de la Fressange in the main dining room may give you extra motivation to eat light. The “Elles” by Gilles Bensimon exhibit moves to Chicago in July, but the “DeLight” 30-minute lunch will continue to be available for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Full-sized “DeLight” appetizers and entrées range from $15-$29 each.
Photos: Kelly Greene
iCi Urban Bistro
806 15th Street, NW
Washington, DC 20005
1969-2014. As a child, Kelly was founder and president for life of the “Clean Plate Club.” Later, in college, she ate pizza for breakfast, lunch and dinner for 6 days straight. Third-generation Washingtonian Kelly caught, cleaned and cooked her own seafood. She saw centers–convention, capital, shopping–rise and fall. And she could probably tell you what restaurant “used to be here,” but she never met the President. This refined (finicky?) fed found the ways and means to fine dine with a good wine.