REVIEW: Sushi Rock is not Penny Lane, but the Other Girl
July 13, 2010The last time I encountered fish with an attitude was when I was living in Las Vegas. Vegas was enjoying its triumphant return from failed family vacation spot to burgeoning food mecca, and I was there to happily partake in its victory.
From finding bible verses on my fries at In-N-Out Burger to dining with Kerry Simon, to balking at a menu with no prices at a shuttered Renoir, I experienced it all.
World-renowned Nobu Matsuhisa was serving up his critically acclaimed sushi at the Hard Rock Hotel, which was overflowing with celebrities.
Because the Hard Rock is that cool.
One night, I was having dinner at Nobu with friends when one of their dates, a Vegas beauty in every sense of the word, frowned in dismay.
“The tomatoes [on the bruschetta] are bad!” she cried in a soft, squeaky voice.
Only it wasn’t bruschetta. And they weren’t tomatoes. (As a side note, the spicy miso lotus chips with big-eye tuna is delicious.)
So seven years later, I cross paths again with sushi that likes to party. Where cutaway guitars meet cuts of fresh fish, where Madonna is a geisha in Jean-Paul Gaultier. Nobu it is not, but Sushi Rock in Arlington is a wallflower who tries. It is not Penny Lane, but her friend with the okay body.
Among a menu of toro, miso lemon seabass and skirt steak, you will find specialty rolls that are as visionary as the songs they’re named after. But that’s where the vision ends.
The Dream On cradles fine, crisp, smoky bacon with bright red, cool, crunchy kimchi, smothered in a creamy sundried tomato aioli. More interesting than delectable, more bold than necessary, it is like a shaky slap from Ike Turner.
The Voodoo Child is a nice contrast though, with mildly spicy lobster salad, soft on the tongue, with the delightfully crunchy pop of tobiko and cucumbers.
The underdog salmon avocado was surprisingly the best roll I had, with large, glossy chunks of sweet salmon, and creamy, smooth avocado. For the happy hour price of $4, it’s a great value. The specialty rolls at the full price of $10 each, are not.
Expertly-mixed cocktails, ranging from $8-$10, might give you the satisfaction you’re trying to get. The Purple Haze with iced tea vodka, blueberry, lemon and raspberry envelopes you in tart berry flavors. The White Rabbit is lucid and sharp with gin, cucumbers, black pepper, and sake.
Find a small selection of Japanese beers like Kirin, Sapporo and Asahi, as well as American beers, wine and a full bar. Happy hour is live Monday through Friday from 5 to 8 p.m., but only offers a limited selection of rolls and cocktails for $1-$2 less.
Sushi Rock does have a indoor loft great for private parties, and a spacious outdoor patio for lounging with a cool drink under the shade of the high-rise building it occupies.
The quality of Sushi Rock’s food does not justify its prices, and because of the lack of shake for my moneymaker, I won’t say that I’m a fan. But if the tickets are half-price, I might come out for a show.
Sushi Rock
1900 Clarendon Blvd.
Arlington, VA 22201
571.312.8027
Open Sunday through Thursday 5 p.m. – 12 a.m.
Friday, Saturday 5p.m. – 2 a.m.
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