Girl Meets Food

Bánh mì. The greatest thing to happen from colonization since Thanksgiving.

The perfect marriage of fresh, crunchy vegetables, nestled with grilled, marinated meats, lovingly tucked into an airy, crusty French baguette.

This popular Vietnamese street food has made its way from casual shops to upscale dining. Like Korean bul gogi, bánh mì is the new “it” food. It’s everywhere now.

I usually stock up at Song Que in Eden Center, a Vietnamese shopping center in Falls Church.

Did you know that Northern Virginia is home to the largest Vietnamese population on the East Coast, with slightly more than 99,000?

And they all shop at Eden Center on the weekends, I swear. That parking lot is a death trap.

But can non-traditional Vietnamese restaurants do bánh mì justice?  In this Sandwich Showdown Series, I review The Source, Bourbon Steak, Rebel Heroes and Dickson Wine Bar.

*****

First it was a hardware store.  Then it was a beauty parlor that survived the riots in ‘68.  Thereafter, perhaps appropriately, the building at 903 “You” was The Dickson Law Firm.  The stone plaque above the door still beckons authoritatively.

Bershire pork bánh mì at Dickson

Dickson Wine Bar—modern, sleek, airy, yet cozy and full of character—so New York.  Has D.C. arrived?

Sebastian Zutant, a close friend of the owners and Proof’s Wine Director, provided 700 wine bottles to decorate Dickson’s back-lit wall of glass and reclaimed wood, giving patrons a warm, colorful hint as to what awaits them.

Snag a seat on any of Dickson’s three stories, and do some people-watching through its large, picturesque windows, on U Street.  Perhaps you’ll see the homeless woman across the street who decided to turn a stoop into her own personal dressing room.

The owners are two couples, one of whom is a Vietnamese woman.  Chef James Claudio, who is half Vietnamese, decided to add bánh mì to the menu.

Dickson’s bánh mì comes with your choice of Murray’s Amish chicken breast, hormone-free ribeye from Kansas’ Creekstone Farms, or Iowa-bred Berkshire pork belly.  I chose the grilled pork because I love the sweet glaze that comes with it.  The tender chunks of pork were pretty juicy, not overly sweet.

The bread is not as airy and crispy as I’m used to, just slightly denser and chewier. The minimal amount of finely shredded daikon left me pouty. The pork was juicy and sweet, but meager—just enough to make an impact.  They didn’t forget my favorite addictive mayo, which really makes the sandwich.

I was surprised to see the bill for $11.  Do you realize Song Que charges $3.50?  I guess that’s I pay for the privilege of eating in D.C.  I must admit, I do enjoy a glass of wine with my bánh mì in a trendy, urban environment.  I even ate my bánh mì with a pinky up.

Among Dickson’s selection of organic and biodynamic wines, a Gruet Blanc de Noirs sparkling wine that’s dry, yet creamy; a 2007 Familia Mayol Bonarda that’s full-bodied, comparable to Pinot noir—heavy, but easy to drink, not too sweet and not too dry.  Also, a 2004 CH Peybonhomme Cabernet blend, which is a nice, solid, dry wine.

Besides the hefty price tag, I did enjoy Dickson’s concoction of savory meat and chewy baguette.  The entire experience—the sights, sounds, tastes, ambience—will keep me coming back.

Stay tuned, as The Source’s Rikka Johnson challenges me to her version of this tasty Vietnamese creation…

Dickson Wine Bar
903 U Street NW
Washington, DC 20001
(202) 332-1779

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